How to Remove Your Old Kitchen Before IKEA Installation

How to Remove Your Old Kitchen Before IKEA Installation

Demolition day is satisfying — there's something cathartic about tearing out an old, dated kitchen. But kitchen removal needs to be done carefully and in the right order to avoid damaging things you want to keep (plumbing, electrical, floors, walls) and to keep yourself safe.

Here's our step-by-step guide, informed by hundreds of kitchen demolitions across Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island.

Before You Start: Safety Considerations

Protective Equipment

• Safety glasses: Mandatory. Debris, splinters, and dust are constant hazards.
• Work gloves: Thick leather or heavy-duty synthetic. Old kitchens have sharp edges, nails, and broken glass.
• Dust mask or N95 respirator: Essential, especially in older homes where plaster dust, lead paint, or mold may be present.
• Closed-toe work boots: Protect your feet from dropped tools and sharp debris.
• Long sleeves and pants: Protect skin from scratches and irritants.

Hazardous Materials Check

Before swinging a single hammer, check for:

Lead paint (homes built before 1978):

• Use an EPA-approved lead test kit on painted surfaces
• If lead is present, follow EPA RRP (Renovation, Repair, and Painting) guidelines
• In Massachusetts, lead paint removal during renovation of homes where children under 6 reside must be done by a licensed lead-safe contractor
• Connecticut and Rhode Island have similar regulations

Asbestos (homes built before 1980):

• Check vinyl flooring, old insulation around pipes, and ceiling tiles
• If you suspect asbestos, have it tested before disturbing it ($25-$75 per sample at a certified lab)
• Asbestos removal requires a licensed abatement contractor in all three New England states

Mold:

• Check behind cabinets, under the sink, and around any areas with a history of water leaks
• Small amounts of mold can be cleaned with bleach solution
• Large mold infestations (more than 10 square feet) should be handled by a mold remediation professional

Step-by-Step Removal Order

The order in which you remove components matters. Here's the correct sequence:

Step 1: Clear and Disconnect

Clear out everything:

• Remove all items from cabinets and drawers
• Remove all items from countertops
• Move the refrigerator out of the kitchen entirely (unplug it 24 hours ahead to let it defrost)

Disconnect utilities:

• Water: Turn off hot and cold water supply valves under the sink. If there are no individual shut-offs, turn off the main water supply. Open the faucet to release pressure.
• Gas (if applicable): Hire a licensed plumber to disconnect gas lines. Do not attempt this yourself. Gas leaks can cause explosions. In MA, CT, and RI, gas work must be done by a licensed professional.
• Electrical: Turn off the kitchen circuit(s) at the electrical panel. Verify power is off with a voltage tester before touching any wiring. Disconnect the dishwasher and garbage disposal.
• Garbage disposal: Disconnect the disposal from both the drain and the electrical supply. Hard-wired disposals should be disconnected by an electrician if you're not comfortable with electrical work.

Step 2: Remove Appliances

• Dishwasher: Disconnect the water supply line, drain hose, and electrical connection. Slide it out.
• Range/cooktop: Disconnect gas or electrical. Slide out carefully (ranges are heavy).
• Range hood: Remove screws holding it to the wall or cabinet. Disconnect electrical. Pull it out.
• Microwave (if built-in or over-the-range): Usually held by a mounting bracket and screws. Have a helper support it as you remove the last screws.

Step 3: Remove Countertops

Countertops come out before cabinets. How to remove them depends on the material:

Laminate countertops:

• Usually screwed up through the base cabinets from below
• Remove the screws and lift the countertop off
• Large sections may need to be cut into manageable pieces with a reciprocating saw

Stone/quartz countertops:

• Usually glued down with silicone or adhesive and may also be screwed
• Break the adhesive bond by inserting a thin pry bar between the countertop and cabinet, working slowly around the perimeter
• Stone is HEAVY — a typical countertop section weighs 100-200+ pounds. You need at least two strong people.
• Consider cutting stone into sections with a diamond blade if it won't come off in manageable pieces

Butcher block:

• Usually screwed from below. Remove screws and lift.
• If still in good condition, salvage it for a workbench, desk, or other project.

Tile countertops:

• Use a sledgehammer and cold chisel to break up the tile and substrate
• This is messy and loud — protect surrounding surfaces with drop cloths

Step 4: Remove Upper Cabinets

Upper cabinets come out before base cabinets (so you don't have to reach over base cabinets to work on them).

• Remove all doors and drawers first — this makes the cabinets lighter and easier to handle
• Remove shelves from inside each cabinet
• Locate the mounting screws — usually through the back of the cabinet into wall studs, or through a mounting rail
• Have a helper support the cabinet while you remove the last screws
• Work from the outside in — remove end cabinets first, then work toward the center

Tip: If the cabinets are in good condition, remove them carefully and donate them to Habitat for Humanity ReStore or a similar organization. They'll give you a tax-deductible receipt.

Step 5: Remove Base Cabinets

• Disconnect the sink plumbing if not already done — remove the P-trap and supply lines
• Remove the sink from the countertop (if it wasn't removed with the countertop)
• Unscrew base cabinets from the wall — screws are usually through the back frame into studs
• Unscrew cabinets from each other — adjacent cabinets are typically screwed together through the face frames
• Remove toe kicks first (they usually clip off or are held by small screws)
• Pull base cabinets forward away from the wall

Step 6: Remove Backsplash

Tile backsplash:

• Use a flat pry bar or wide putty knife behind the tiles
• Work from the top down
• Old plaster behind tile may come off with it — expect to need wall repair
• In older New England homes with plaster walls, removing tile backsplash often takes chunks of plaster with it. Budget for wall repair.

Other backsplash materials (glass, metal, peel-and-stick):

• Pry bar and putty knife work for most materials
• Adhesive residue may need to be scraped or sanded off

Step 7: Wall and Floor Assessment

With everything out, inspect the walls and floor:

Walls:

• Patch holes from cabinet mounting screws
• Repair any plaster or drywall damage from backsplash removal
• Check for water damage (common behind sink cabinets)
• Check for mold (common in damp areas)
• Note stud locations for the new suspension rail

Floor:

• Inspect the subfloor for damage, water stains, or rot
• Check for level across the kitchen
• Decide if new flooring will go in before cabinets (recommended — IKEA cabinets sit on adjustable legs above the finished floor)

Disposal Options in Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island

Dumpster Rental

The most common option for kitchen demolition debris:

• 10-yard dumpster: Usually sufficient for a single kitchen demolition. Cost: $300-$500 for a 7-day rental.
• 15-yard dumpster: For larger kitchens or if you're also removing flooring. Cost: $400-$600.
• Delivery: Most dumpster companies deliver to your driveway. Make sure you have space and your municipality allows it (some require a permit if the dumpster goes on the street).

Local dumpster rental companies in New England:

• Boston area: CaseCo, Budget Dumpster, Republic Services
• Connecticut: All-American Waste, Casella, USA Hauling
• Rhode Island: RIRRC (for transfer stations), Waste Management, Casella

Municipal Bulky Waste Pickup

Many towns in MA, CT, and RI offer bulk waste pickup:

• Boston: Schedule through the city's 311 service
• Cambridge: Curbside pickup available by appointment
• Providence: Bulk pickup available — contact the DPW
• Most suburbs: Check your town's DPW website for bulk waste procedures

Transfer Stations

If you have a truck or trailer, you can haul demolition debris yourself to a local transfer station:

• Fees vary by town and weight
• Typically $50-$150 for a kitchen's worth of debris
• Many transfer stations separate recyclable materials (wood, metal, etc.)

Donation

Cabinets and appliances in decent condition can be donated:

• Habitat for Humanity ReStore: Accepts usable cabinets, countertops, and appliances. Locations in Boston, Providence, Hartford, and many other New England communities. They'll sometimes pick up large donations.
• Salvation Army: Accepts working appliances
• Craigslist/Facebook Marketplace "Free" section: Post it and someone will come get it, often within hours

DIY Removal vs. Hiring a Crew

DIY Removal

• Cost: $300-$500 (dumpster rental + your time)
• Time: 1-2 full days for most kitchens (with a helper)
• Skill level needed: Moderate — anyone with basic tool skills can do it
• Best for: Homeowners who are comfortable with physical work and want to save money

Professional Demolition

• Cost: $800-$2,000 depending on kitchen size and complexity
• Time: Usually completed in 4-8 hours by a professional crew
• Includes: Removal, hauling, and disposal of all materials
• Best for: Homeowners who want it done fast, don't have time, or have hazardous materials (lead, asbestos) that require professional handling

At Hearthstone Kitchens, we offer demolition as part of our full-service installation package. Our crew handles everything from disconnecting utilities to hauling away debris, so your kitchen is ready for the new IKEA cabinets when installation day arrives. Contact us for a complete project quote.

Timeline Tip

Schedule demolition to be completed at least 2-3 days before IKEA cabinet installation begins. This gives you time to:

• Complete any wall or floor repairs
• Have the plumber and electrician do rough-in work
• Clean the space thoroughly
• Verify all your IKEA components are on-site and accounted for

Rushing from demolition straight into installation almost always causes problems. Give yourself breathing room.